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Diamond Clarity

The Gemmological Institute of America (G.I.A.) scale, which grades the clarity of diamonds, is the same used by the IDC International Diamond Council and CIBJO the World Jewellery Confederation, and all laboratories of repute.

Although seemingly subjective, the scale has specific criteria that are used to differentiate between the different grades; for example I.D.C has clear diagrams that define not only the type of inclusion, but also where it must appear in the diamond in terms of the clarity grade it can receive.

It is important to remember that the grading of a diamond must be under a 10x magnification. Although labs often use much stronger magnification when studying a stone, they are obliged to define their grading as to what is visible at 10 x magnification. The scale used is as follows:

  • FL: Completely flawless (the perfect diamond clarity)

  • IF: Internally flawless; only external flaws are present, which can be removed by further polishing of the stone (some graders use these two grading interchangeably)

  • VVS1 - VVS2: It would take an expert to detect flaws with a 10x eyeglass. If one can see a flaw from the top of the diamond, it is a VVS2. Otherwise, if an expert can only detect flaws when viewing the bottom of the stone, then it is a VVS1

  • VS1 - VS2: flaws can be viewed with a 10 x eyeglass – these flaws often appear like specs

  • SI1 – SI3: You can see flaws through an eye glass of 10 x

  • I1 - I3: You can see flaws with the naked eye. This clarity is as it seems - the lowest - and is chosen by someone who wants ‘ ALL SHOW AND NO GO”! Normally someone who wants a big stone.

There are a lot of technical terms used when describing flaws or imperfections in a diamond. It is important to remember that an imperfection in a diamond is why a diamond is natural; the inclusions are its I.D markers, and obsession with clarity defeats the fundamentals of buying a diamond.

The overall beauty the stone presents must be first and foremost. Obviously an inclusion visible to the naked eye can be a distraction, but no doubt a beautifully proportioned SI stone will obliterate a lumpy or shallow, flawless one.

The most common inclusions are:

  • Pinpoint: A very small white dot on the surface of the stone

  • Carbons: A very small black dot on the surface of the stone

  • Clouds: Hazy areas within the diamond

When your jeweller shows you a diamond through a 10 x eye glass whilst holding it in a pair of tweezers, they should tell you to think of the diamond as a watch face, and then describe to you where the inclusion may be i.e.

Eg. At 9 o’clock one can see carbons